Dirty Dick's & Katie's Dance

Vacation: Day 5

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Jeff & Carrie had arrived the night before, old friendships renewed and introductions made. We all unwound after our busy day with some drinks on the top deck. Soon, everyone turned in for the night.

The next morning was again bright & sunny - I was up at dawn. I really had to remember to close the blinds over my bed before falling asleep. Waking naturally via the sun is great - if the sun comes up around 9 a.m. and not 6:30. The ocean was definitely calmer today - the gentle sound of the waves whispered in the distance. Once again, being the first one up, I started the coffee and checked the Weather Channel. (I could see a routine forming.) Another sunny & warm day was forecast.

The rest of the group began straggling up the stairs, heading directly for a caffeine fix. The day's plans were discussed on the deck. Since this was Chris & Katie's last day in Hatteras, they would spend the day at the beach, after a quick dip in the pool. Jeff & Carrie thought they would just laze around Lightship - yesteday had been a long day of traveling for them. Harry wanted to check out some of the galleries in the area. I considered the unlimited options of activities in which I could partake and decided on ..... laying around the pool and reading a book.

I was re-reading "The Keeper's Son" by Homer Hickam. The story takes place on a fictional island, Killakeet (my opinion - appears to be fashioned after Portsmouth), along the Outer Banks. Main character, U.S.C.G. Captain Josh Thurlow, has returned to Killakeet still searching for his younger brother, who was lost to the sea 17 years earlier. Having shunned his family's traditional occupation of lighthouse keeper - much to the chagrin of his father, Josh and his causual crew of islanders, guard the coast against German U-boats during the early years of WWII. For sure, I am not a fan of books based on German submarine warfare, but Josh and his ragtag group aboard the "Maudie Jane", along with the island's resident characters, are highly entertaining, making for a great read, especially on Hatteras Island! (For those of you interested in reading non-fictionalized accounts of German U-boat attacks along the North Carolina coast during WWII, I recommend "Torpedo Junction" also written by Hickam.

After a few hours around the pool, much of it spent sitting under an umbrella (for some reason, this year my skin seemed to burn - a rarity for me), I headed upstairs (again taking a rest between floors 2 & 4 - I really gotta quit smoking) and, as was quickly becoming status quo, joined the group on the ocean front deck for early evening cocktails. Harry had decided to make his famous chicken & noodles for dinner, but first we decided to head to Hatteras Landing for Dirty Dick's happy hour shrimp.

Chris, Katie and Harry had made the acquaintance of the bartender the evening before and she kept us well supplied with shrimp and hush puppies. Prepared cocktail sauce is not served with the shrimp. However, the do-it-yourself makings were lined up on the bar. Chris had perfected a recipe of horseradish, tabasco and ketchup that was spicey enough to make the nose run, but without the tears. We had a fun time, just shooting the breeze, eating & drinking. I would be sad to see Chris & Katie leave tomorrow morning. They had been on Hatteras for only 2 days .... how could they bear to return home so soon? Between Jeff, Harry & I, logical(?) explanations were presented to the kids on why they should remain. After more beers, these explanations sounded logical, even to me, and after a couple quick phone calls back home, it was decided they would delay their departure for a day. In high spirits, we went back to the Lightship so Harry could start cooking. As he labored away in the kitchen, Chris, Katie, Carrie and I played Yahtzee. We have played Yahtzee every year we've visited on the Outer Banks - even the year that the Dane's came to Rodanthe. (Birgit spoke very, very little English and it was so funny when she'd cry out, "Fuld hus!") After Harry's incredible dinner, we went back to our game. I'm not sure which was more entertaining .... the actual playing of the game or playing the game with Katie. She's quite animated and energetic in her game participation! This was the evening that will go down in history as the creation of "Katie's Yahtzee Dance!" Upon rolling her first Yahtzee, Katie began with a little wiggle dance in her chair, culminating with laying on the floor with all 4 limbs waving about. Soon Harry & Chris were also doing the Yahtzee Dance .... what a crazy group! Sorry to say that no one thought to photograph this ritual.

Lazy Summer Day

Photo by: OBXShooter

Vacation Day: 4

Monday, September 29, 2008

I awoke bright & early Monday morning. The sun was rising over the ocean and streaming through the bedroom windows. I had fallen asleep the night before to the sound of the surf booming on the beach. Not the gentle whish & whoosh of waves, but great crashing explosions. The noise had awakened me a few times and I briefly considered closing the windows to lessen the resonance of the breakers, but then thought ..... "Are you insane? This is what you're paying the big bucks for!" The windows remained open.

Still in my jammies & barefoot, I padded into the kitchen and put on a pot of coffee and checked the Weather Channel. Ahhhh .... warm & sunny, but the rough seas would continue. Perfect day to bum around the pool. Carrying my coffee to the deck, I surveyed what would be my little kingdom for the next 2 glorious weeks. Looking to the east, huge waves were breaking far out to sea. Turning, I watched the cars & trucks boarding the ferry. Oh, to begin every Monday like this!

Inhaling deeply, I could smell ..... well, actually I could smell deisel wafting eastward from the ferry landing. One small glitch in an otherwise incredible moment.

Harry soon joined me - he had plans for the day, and was eager to be off on his adventures. I wandered down to the pool area and dabbled my tootsies in the water. Holy cow! That was some really cold water! Gauging the location of the sun, I figured that by 11 o'clock, the sun would be beating down on the west side of the cottage, hopefully warming the pool.

Returning up the 4 flights of stairs (with a short rest between floors 2 & 3), I put my sleeping quarters to order, slipped on my swimsuit (thank God ..... it still fit from last year), grabbed my book and headed back to the pool with a quick detour to the kitchen for another cup of coffee.

Chris & Katie were sitting at the kitchen bar, Katie drinking coffee, Chris eating leftover tacos - the breakfast of champions. I felt slightly guilty - had Grandma Elly been there, she'd be busy at the stove, cooking up some oatmeal for Chris. Well, he'd have to settle for tacos this year.

They kids decided they would hang out around the pool and practice rolling their kayaks.

Great!

Entertainment!

Rolling in a kayak must be much more difficult than it looks. Katie was the spotter as Chris tried and tried to upright himself. It's hard for a mom to watch her child underwater and then see a hand flailing above the surface, seeking help. I joined them in the water. Wow! My calculations had been incorrect in thinking the water would be warm(er) by now. It was ...... refreshing! And cold.

The kids went off for a bike ride and I basked in the sun next to the pool. It was wonderful feeling the sun beat down on me. I read for about an hour, then jumped in the shower and dressed for dinner.

Jeff & Carrie were expected to arrive later this evening, so Harry, Chris, Katie and I had decided to have dinner at the Breakwater. As I waited for my house mates to return from their various activities, I sat on the deck with a drinky-poo, watching the sunset over the sound. My favorite part of the day while on the Outer Banks, is that time when the sun is just beginning to slip behind the horizon .... soft music playing in the background, a gentle breeze caressing my slightly sunburned face - totally relaxing.

The neighborhood was bathed in pastel colors and the moon hung high in the sky. I swear, I could sit there for hours and never tire of the peace and calm that I felt.

Soon, the rest of the crew rolled in, joining me for a drink or two on the deck. Harry, Chris & Katie had run into one another at Hatteras Landing during happy hour at Dirty Dick's. Now, I'm not a big fan of Dirty Dick's (in more ways than one), but decided it might be worth checking out the happy hour during my stay. For $10, you got a pound of steamed, spiced shrimp and a basket of hush puppies. Quite the deal!

Off we headed to the Breakwater located at Oden's Dock. I had heard so many positive reviews of the place, I was very excited to dine there! By the time we arrived, the sun had totally disappeared, but the view from the dining area was still entrancing - the boats docked at the marina gently bobbed in the water as their captains hosed them down after a day of fishing.

For our appetizers, we ordered Blue Crab Ravioli and some type of shrimp. I wasn't thrilled with the shrimp - too spicey for me, but the ravioli - Oh, mama mia! The little pillows were stuffed with lumb crab meat & asiago cheese, smothered in a roasted shallot sherry cream with wild mushrooms. Incredible. I was in heaven.

Our entrées included Bleu Cheese Mussels (Harry), mussels and leeks sautéed, then simmered in a Roquefort Cream sauce and served with herbed crostini; Carolina Shrimp (Katie), native wild shrimp broiled in a white wine and butter sauce; Seafood Medley (Chris), shrimp, scallops, flounder and crabcake; and Scallops al Greco (me), sautéed sea scallops, mushrooms, fresh tomatoes, spinach and feta cheese in a white wine - oregano butter sauce, served over a bed of angel hair pasta. A memorable meal! I highly recommend the Breakwater to all of you gourmands reading this.

"It was a furry bird, standing on its hind legs!"

Vacation: Day 3 con't. Sunday Evening, September 28th, 2008 If anyone is keeping a journal via blooger.com, please let me know what I'm doing wrong! While creating posts, the page layout is perfect .... there are paragraphs, captions are set correctly beneath photographs, etc. The preview is also laid out to my specifications. However, when I actually post the entry, it's all screwed up. Help! Getting back to our story ...... Following our lunch at Teach's Lair and the key retrieval, Harry & I took possession of Lightship. A quick walk through revealed 2 story high ceilings in the great room, loads of windows in all rooms, each with a view of either the sound or ocean or both, comfortable furnishings and numerous amenities not mentioned in on the rental agency's web site. A darling wooden table and chairs graced the top, ocean front deck. From this deck, the ferry landing could also be seen. With the addition of an umbrella, this would be the perfect place for morning coffee. Dozens of recessed lights, along with dozens of light switches. We never did figure out what some of the switches were for, nor how to turn on certain lights! No elevator, however, so Harry carried up most of the luggage and groceries up 4 flights of stairs. What a guy! The cottage was decorated in colors of beige, off-white and brown - sounds rather boring, but actually it was quite soothing. No jarring tropical theme, but rather a subtle sophistication. I began putting the kitchen into order, cleaning and rearranging cupboards & drawers, loading the dishwasher with dishes & cutlery (you never know if ColleenNJ may have stayed in this cottage), wiping out the fridge and putting away groceries. What a view from the kitchen/dining area! The sun was setting over the sound, the evening sky washed with blues & purples with a mere hint of gold. The boats docked at the marina bobbed in the water, their lights appearing to be small diamonds sparkling just off shore. With a panorama like this, I really didn't mind cleaning the kitchen! I went down around the pool area, washing off the deck furniture and sweeping the patio. Checking the hot tub, I found the temperature to be perfectly set for the cool evening. With everything set to order in the cottage, I eagerly awaited the arrival of Chris & Katie. I'd been in contact with them numerous times that day. They had over nighted in Asheville, after spending Saturday kayaking on the Nantahala River. This was Katie's first time back on the water since her terrible accident on the South Platte. All day Saturday I had worried about them being on the rapids, but the phone calls assured me that their paddling adventure had been uneventful. They arrived a bit before 7 o'clock and after a few drinks on the upper deck, we headed out to explore the culinary delights of Hatteras Village. We first stopped at the Breakwater. Although not even 8 p.m., they had stopped serving and advised us that most restaurants, if they are even open on Sundays, quit serving early. Shrimp Shack ..... closed. Teach's ..... stopped serving. Ruh-roh. Our meager kitchen provisions did not include the makings of an adequate dinner, so it was a mad dash to Burrus' Red & White for taco fixin's. The hunger in our eyes must have been apparent, as the small market remained open after hours as we hurriedly threw taco shells, cheeses, lettuce, ground beef, etc., into our cart. Harry was dancing in the aisles, singing something about a Mexican fiesta. Our first dinner in Lightship was surprisingly good. Tacos, frijoles, chips & salsa, Corona - it definitely hit the spot. After cleaning up the kitchen and loading the dishwasher for the 4th time that day, Harry & I took our ease in front of the television and Chris & Katie headed for the hot tub. I drowsed lazily on the couch as Harry sat in one of the "man chairs" watching football. Just as I began my descent into sleep, the sound of a banging door and footsteps racing up the stairs brought me back to full consciousness. With an entrance worthy of Cosmo Kramer, Katie & Chris ran into the great room. Excitedly, Katie described a "creature" that was hanging around the pool and hot tub. "It was a big, furry bird, standing on its hind legs." Oh, no! Was Big Bird on the loose?

Chris thought it looked more like a weasel or ferret .... I was clueless as to what sort of animal had invaded the pool area. Orrrrr ...... was it possible that it was a nutria? The Internet is a wonderful resource for questions such as this. Sure enough, it was not a Sesame Street character, but a nutria.

Nutria, also known as coypu, are large semi-aquatic rodents, indigenous to South America. In the 1930's, they were imported to Louisiana for the fur farming industry. Either intentionally or accidently, these big effin' rats made their way into the wild, moving up the east coast, becoming quite a nuisance. A few years ago, Colington & Roanoke islands had a problem with them hanging around the sound side docks and wreaking havoc.

The kids did not return to the hot tub that evening .... instead everyone agreed it had been a long, busy day and a good night's sleep was in order for tomorrow - our first full day in Hatteras!

I am now going to attempt posting a slide show of Lightship ..... I'm sure I'll screw something up, so bear with me .............

Hatteras Village & Lightship

Vintage Postcard of Hatteras Village

Vacation: More of Day 3

Saturday afternoon, September 28th, 2008

We were here! As tradition dictacted, our first stop would be to check out the rental. Driving towards the ferry landing, I was gratified to see that not much had changed along Route 12. The big, old white building across the street from the Red & White was standing empty. Hmmmmm ..... I wondered if it's for sale? Thankfully, only the one Wings still occupied the village - As much as I despise Wings stores, they were having a sale! 50% off everything in the store! I would need to check that out! (I'd later regret that decision.) And, look there! That huge construction site we wondered about last year on the curve just south of Lee Robinson's, was Seaworthy Gallery. Very beautiful.

The highway divided .... "Beaches" to the left, "Ferry" to the right. Bearing left, I caught sight of the backside of Lightship. Left onto South Beach and another quick left on South Beach Court and we were there.

Slowly cruising past the cottage, we agreed that the exterior was certainly beautiful - but knowing not to judge a book by its cover, we decided to hold off our final judgment until we saw the interior.

With two hours left to kill, we drove back to Teach's Lair Marina for a lingering lunch at the Island Bar & Grille. Ahhhh ..... my first crabcakes of the season! They were served with homemade potato chips - tasty, but I'm not sure I'd go out of my way to order them. Overlooking the Pamlico Sound, the restaurant has some of the best dining views on Hatteras Island. Watching the fishing fleet returning in the late afternoon or viewing the ferry departures and returns makes for relaxing entertainment.

Hooray! It was finally time to pick up the key - I dashed into Midgett's and we headed back to South Beach. We pulled into the driveway and leaving the groceries and luggage in the car, we immediately went into the cottage to check out the accommodations. They were ............. PERFECT! Tomorrow .... If I can figure it out, a slideshow of the cottage and the arrival of Chris & Katie.

Gone to Carolina

Vacation: Day 3

Sunday, September 28, 2008

The shrill ring of the telephone woke me from my deep, dreamless sleep. It couldn't possibly be my wake up call! I had just closed my eyes! But, sure enough, it was the front desk, advising me (in an uncommonly chipper voice for that time of day), that it was 7 a.m. Time to rise & shine!

Groaning, I rolled over, pulled the duvet over my head and considered catching a few more winks. Never had a pillow and mattress fit my body so well! The room temperature was perfection! It seemed I had finally found the ideal conditions in which to sleep. I couldn't possibly leave such a comfy environ! But, realizing the less I tarried in bed, the sooner I would arrive in Hatteras Village, I threw back the covers, bounded out of bed and to my feet (okay, okay .... I admit it .... I've never bounded out of bed) and jumped into the shower.

After washing away three days of accumulated grime, I felt refreshed and ready to take on the day. I tracked Harry down - he was breakfasting in the dining room at the hotel. I joined him for a cup of coffee and then we got under way for the day's travel.

It was a lovely drive .... the scenery beautiful and conversation pleasant. Harry and I hadn't spent much (if any) time together as children - he was one of the "big" cousins and I was one of the little crumb crunchers who visited his hometown of St. Joe, MO only a few times a year. It was nice to get to know Harry a little better.

We stopped at Grandy's Market along the way to pick up some fresh produce. When I first began visiting the Outer Banks, Grandy's was just a little wooden farm stand along the side of a 2 lane highway. Now, that 2 lane highway has expanded into 5 lanes of constant traffic and the farm stand has numerous buildings displaying the best fruits, veggies and other foods from eastern NC.

The first thing that caught my eye was a table full of home grown 'maters! Oh, sweet Nancy! How I love tomatoes fresh out of the garden. I bagged a half dozen of those, my mouth already watering in anticipation of a tomato sandwich on toast with mayo. Yum!

Samples of boiled peanuts and peaches were being offered. I skipped the boiled peanuts (I don't think anyone really likes boiled peanuts - it's a mean joke that Southerners play on us Yankees), but popped a peach slice into my mouth. What a heavenly taste. There's nothing better than taking a bite out of a big, ol' ripe peach and having the juice run down your arm. I added the peaches to my purchases. We bought a few more items, then headed southward again.

As we crossed Wright Memorial Bridge, I called the rental agency to see when Lightship would be ready for occupancy .... I had expected around noon, and was dismayed to learn that it would be 5 o'clock, as the carpets had been shampooed that morning. Harry & I decided with the delay, we would stop at the Food Lion in Avon and complete our grocery shopping for necessities.

Soon, Bodie Island lighhouse loomed ahead, and then Bonner Bridge, spanning the Oregon Inlet. I was giddy with excitement! Finally, I'd be back on my beloved Hatteras Island after a year's absence. I rolled down the window, unfastened my seatbelt and practice holding my breath, just in case this would be the day the Bonner decided to take its inevitable dive. Nope, another successful crossing!

Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo ..... we were getting closer! Of course, we had to check out Serendipity, the cottage in Rodanthe used in the filming "Nights in Rodanthe." (schlock alert) Then Avon.

We breezed through the Food Lion and upon realizing that we still couldn't check in for another 4 hours, we unpacked Harry's car to reach the cooler. We jammed in as many perishables as possible and prayed that the rest of the refrigerated items would survive their time in the hot sun.

Back on Route 12, we approached Buxton. Canadian Hole was full of kite boarders. I guess wind surfing is passé? Not much had changed in Buxton. I noticed the bushes around the Orange Blossom Cafe were gone. I almost didn't recognize the place! The lighthouse, Dillon's Corner, the Village Bookstore, Connor's .... all welcoming sights to me.

I was glad to see Indiantown Gallery still open in Frisco. Nearing the south end of Frisco I could see our final destination in the distance.

Finally!

Hatteras Village!

When Harry Met Lynnea

Vacation: Continuation of Day 2 Afternoon & Evening of Saturday, September 26, 2008 After leaving Harper's Ferry (making a mental note that this is a must see destination in the future), the train headed for Washington, D.C. According to Amtrak's timetable, I would have a five hour layover there - unfortunately, we were running nearly four hours behind schedule. I had hoped to check my bags and then walk around the old part of the station, perhaps even take in a few sites of our Nation's Capital. Now, I had growing concerns about making my connection to Newport News. CTBFF advised me to request a Red Cap on arrival at Union Station. A red cap? Not wanting to appear totally clueless in the realm of train travel, I agreed that was a sound suggestion. As the train began to slow, Conductor announced we would be arriving in Washington, D. C. in a few minutes and he "hoped you all had a pleasant journey on Amtrak." Yeah, now he decides to be a personable, friendly guy. Asshole. I gathered up my carry on bag, and made my way down the narrow stairway to the luggage rack. As I endeavored to collect the rest of my baggage, people shoved and pushed to pass me. Finally, I stepped aside until the crowd thinned, quickly pulled the bags down from the rack and shoved them out the door onto the platform. Conductor stood off to the side, impervious to any passenger's needs. Including mine. His eyes narrowed as I approached him. I could read his thoughts .... "The butt-ticket lady. What does she want?" Summoning my courage, I said, "I need a red cap." No "please," no "thank you," no "excuse me sir" would be uttered by me. I could be just as impolite as he had been. He keyed his radio and requested a red cap to our location, then walked away. Very soon, a cute little golf cart came zooming towards me. The driver was wearing .... a red cap! Okay, now I knew what a Red Cap was! He hopped out, tossed my bags into the back of the cart as though they weighed less than a feather, helped me into a seat and off we went, dodging pedestrians, luggage and other golf carts. After ascertaining which train I'd next be boarding, Red Cap drove right into the station! Skillfully, he avoided all obstacles in our path, driving at top speed, constantly beeping the little horn. We pulled into a waiting area, he unloaded my bags, I tipped him nicely and then asked where I would be boarding. He replied that if I would wait right there, he'd be back in 15 minutes to take me to my train. Well, heck .... that sounded good to me. Sure enough, 15 minutes later I could hear the golf cart's engine roaring down the promenade of the station. Screeching to a halt, Red Cap gathered up me and my belongings and situated us in the cart. I braced myself for take off. Speeding through the crowd, horn tooting, we zipped out of the station and onto the loading platform. The cart picked up momentum as we barreled towards my new train. With a flourish, Red Cap braked, jumped out, hoisted my bags and had them stowed on the train nearly before I was even able to climb out of my seat. Big tip. Thanks, Red Cap! The car to Newport News was nearly empty - maybe only a half dozen passengers. No steps up to a 2nd level on this trip! I made myself comfy, opened my book and settled in for a relaxing ride. I quickly laid aside the novel and instead watched the amazing views of Washington, D. C. as the train headed south. I caught glimpses of the Jefferson Memorial as well as the Washington Monument. We crossed the Potomac River and headed into Virginia ..... I think. (Once I was beyond south central Pennsylvania, I was never sure what state/district I was going through.)

The train made numerous stops in small towns, but none were long enough to jump out and snap some pics. Deciding I should grab some lunch/dinner (it was now 6:30 p.m.), I headed for the cafe. I placed my order for pizza and a Yuengling. What a lovely experience .... sitting in a booth, eating dinner and watching the world pass by! By this time I had been in the same clothes 32 hours and was longing for a hot shower, a couple of cold beers and to experience sleep in a horizontal position. I headed for the loo and attempted to clean up a bit (to no avail .... I still resembled a homeless person) in anticipation of meeting cousin Harry.

Soon the nice conductor (the crew on this run was really pleasant) called out the words I'd been longing to hear for many hours .... "Next stop, Newport News!"

Stepping off the train, I saw Harry approaching. Thank God he hadn't forgotten to pick me up! We shared a quick hug and then he took a look at me and said, "Wow. Rough train ride?" Gee, he really knows how to make a girl feel good.

We loaded up his car and headed off. Harry suggested dinner, but really, I just longed for a couple of cold beers and a comfy bed. We stopped at a 7-11 (there are still 7-11's Back East!) and I snatched up an icy 6-pack of Heineken's.

After checking into the motel, I decided I was too pooped to shower. Quickly slipping on my jammies, I pulled back the duvet and dove into the bed. Heavenly! Pillow-top mattress, 6 pillows, crisp, cool sheets ..... ahhhhhh. I reached for a beer and gave the top a quick twist. Hmmmm ..... it didn't budge. I tried again ..... nothing. Horrified, I realized that this wasn't a twist top bottle. OH NO!! I tried popping off the top using the door lock mechanism, I tried smacking it off using a counter top. It was useless ..... I was doomed to only look and fondle the ice cold bottle, dripping with moisture. I began to doubt the existance of God.

I flipped off the lights and immediately fell into the arms of Morpheus.

Tomorrow ..... Harry & I are off to Hatteras!!!!

Rock-a-bye Traveler & Harper's Ferry

Amtrak Routes

Vacation: Day 2

Saturday, September 26, 2008

I dozed on & off, sans CTBFF, surrounded by a legion of foreign languages. My fellow passengers were a veritable traveling United Nations. Behind me were seated 2 gentlemen, one from India, the other from the Mid-East. In front of me was a young man from Germany, speaking fluent French to the Quebec'ers across the aisle. To my left was a Russian fellow, staring morosely out the window into the darkness. (I really wanted to try out the only Russian phrase I knew, "Da! Pivo!" - "Yes! Beer!" (да! пиво!), but he looked rather dour. Do Russians EVER laugh?) Behind him sat a large group of Amish folk. Their slight German accents reminded me of the farmers back home. The cacophony was somewhat comforting & relaxing - I scrunched tightly into my little corner in anticipation of being joined by CT guy and slipped deeply into slumber.

Around 1 a.m. I awoke, momentarily confused by my milieu. I was still alone in the seats, my personal space intact. The only sounds were the swish of the train as it swayed gently along the tracks and the occasional snores, sighs & grunts of others sleeping. Adjusting my position, I quickly resumed sleeping status.

When I next awoke, we were at a standstill, numerous passengers, including the herd of Amish, disembarking onto the platform. The early light of dawn illuminated the depot sign - "Pittsburgh." Conductor made the announcement that this would be a smoking stop, albeit abbreviated. Those who had not returned to their seats when the train doors closed, would be left behind in Pittsburgh. (His humor had not improved over night.)

Hmmm .... which did I need more? A cigarette or a trip to the loo? Off I went to the facilities. After relieving myself, washing my face, brushing my teeth and a quick comb through of the hair, in the miniscule quarters, I went in search of coffee. The cafe was located below the observation car.

As I made way through the car, I noticed CTBFF curled up on two of the seats, still asleep. What a gentleman! Even though I had not voiced my concerns regarding sleeping next to a strange man, he was gallant enough to allow me privacy as I slumbered.

With 2 coffees and a bagel in hand, I returned to my now familiar lair and watched the sunrise as the train slowly began its departure from the station.

I can't recall ever having been in Pittsburgh before .... I'm sure there are some beautiful areas of the city, but we sure didn't pass by them. The bleak view from my window showed desolate, deserted buildings. Trash littered the landscape. Gang signs were painted on nearly every vertical surface lining the tracks. I was reminded of Marvelous Moondance, a member of the Outer Banks Connection. His motto is "Rust Never Sleeps." Wow, MM sure could have plenty of choogling photo opportunities in Pittsburgh!

Traveling southeast through Pennsylvania, we went around mountains, over mountains and through mountains, making for some delightful site seeing. When Conductor called out our next stop would be Harper's Ferry, I was excited.

Harper's Ferry - After Civil War Battle

Most of you who know me, realize that I'm a bit of a history buff. And, Harper's Ferry held an important place in America's history.

Here we go .... today's In-A-Nutshell-History lesson:

Harper's Ferry is located at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers in West Virginia. In October, 1859, abolitionist John Brown (a radical extremist, to put it mildly) planned a raid on the Federal armory and arsenal at Harper's Ferry with hopes of using the weapons to initiate a slave uprising throughout the South. This action was described as the act that lit the fuse on the beginning of the Civil War. Ironically, the first fatality in Brown's attack was a free black man, Heyward Shepherd, a night baggage clerk at the railroad in Harper's Ferry. On October 18th, after failed negotiations, federal troops stormed the engine house where Brown and his cohorts had taken refuge. John Brown was tried for treason against the Commonwealth of Virginia, found guilty and subsequently hanged December 2nd, 1859.

Engine House

Harper's Ferry Following Brown's Raid

Chugging Our Way to DC & Points Beyond

Vacation: Still Day 1

Still Friday, September 26th, 2008

Following my 2 block hike along the boarding platform at Union Station, I arrived at my designated train car. I was wheezing like an old accordian and sweating like some kind of farm animal - yet, I was now expected to lug my bags up a flight of 4 steps and then another longer, narrow, winding staircase to the second level.

Again, I appealed for help. Again, I was ignored. Again, I muttered, "Assholes."

I wrestled 2 of my bags into a storage rack on the lower level, then hauled my carry-on up the next flight. I collapsed into my assigned seat, swearing to myself that I'd never ride the rails again.

After a few more puffs of Albuterol, I surveyed my surroundings. Not bad .... I had a window seat. The seat reclined and had both a leg & foot rest. Currently, it was quite comfy, but I wondered how it would be 15 hours later.

I was soon joined by my seat-mate, a middle-aged gentleman from Connecticut. He pegged me immediately as a newbie in the realm of train travel, and quickly gave me the low down on where the loo, lounge, observation & dining cars were located. We chatted briefly, then settled into our seats - he with his Ipod, me with my book. Thank heavens I didn't have a talker!

As the train slowly left the station, Conductor gave us a lengthy speech on dos & don'ts on HIS train. He frightened me. He ran through the list of rules, including toilet etiquette ("If you don't treat the restrooms with cleanliness & respect, I WILL shut them down!"), the wearing of shoes at all times when not seated ("You can easily lose your toes walking between cars without proper footwear."), as well as making reservations to dine, do not request a change in your seat, and most importantly, ALWAYS have your ticket at the ready for his inspection.

Hmmmm .... maybe I had boarded the wrong train.

I was supposed to be going to Washington, D. C., not Auschwitz.

As Conductor swaggered his way down the aisle, he addressed each passenger with a curt, "Ticket." The requested item was quickly handed over and he briskly separated the ticket and stub. As he approached me, I realized I couldn't recall where I had place my ticket! Oh, my God! I dumped the contents of my purse into my lap .... no, not there! I rummaged through the carry-on .... where was that damned ticket?!? Conductor's shadow fell across me - "Ticket."

I piteously confessed that I appeared to have lost it.

He repeated the word with a look of disdain. "Ticket."

"I just had it," I whispered.

"I'll be back," he threatened.

The CT seat-mate joined my search in the elusive piece of paper. As we stood to retrace my steps from the lower level, my new BFF reached towards my fanny ..... I had been sitting on the ticket!

Conductor returned, holding out his hand - no words were needed.

I handed it to him with a tremulous smile. As he snatched it up, my CTBFF explained, "It was stuck to her butt." Gingerly, Conductor returned the stub.

After that, the evening ride was fairly uneventful. By now, darkness had fallen and the only sights to be seen were small town lights streaking past my window. CTBFF had retired to the lounge for an light repast and I shifted around in my seat, seeking a relaxing position for a good night's sleep.

Then, it occurred to me .... I would be sleeping with a strange man, with only an arm rest between us!

Day 2 begins tomorrow ...........

Upon Leaving Iowa

Vacation: Day 1 Friday, September 26th, 2008 Even with a 365 day advance notice of my vacation dates, I still managed to leave most of my packing until the very last minute. And, what with traveling via Amtrak this year, I knew that I was severely limited on the amount of luggage that I could take. Hence, less stuff, less packing time. Wrong. After filling my two allowed 28" x 22" x 14" fifty pound limit bags, and my one carry-on bag, a massive pile of clothing, books, shoes, personal items, etc., loomed ominiously off to the side, asking, "Ha. So, where ya gonna pack me?" I unpacked and started over - a few times. Two beach towels, an extra set of bath towels, sweats, books, blow dryer, jacket, and numerous clothing items went into the discard pile. I was now down to the essentials and fervently praying that the washer/dryer at the cottage was in working order.

(Luckily, Chris and Katie were driving, and had volunteered to carry down a huge bin of non-perishable food stuffs, paper products, the Yahtzee game and laundry detergent, as well as 3 beach umbrellas, none of which would have made the trip if not for them. None of these items would be making the return trip to Iowa.)

Bugs & I had decided that we'd leave home around 12:30 p.m., arriving in Chicago by 4:30 at the latest, giving us plenty of time to find our way through Union Station to catch the 7 o'clock train. Due to my packing dilemma, we didn't leave until nearly 2 o'clock.

Not terribly concerned about our late start (never had it taken over 4 hours to reach downtown Chicago), we merrily motored along the toll way at a goodly rate of speed. Then it happened ..... the dreaded Friday evening rush hour traffic. Vehicles crawled at a snail's pace as far as the eye could see. Precious minutes were ticking by as our panic welled. Finally, at a bit after 6, we saw our turnoff! Whew! We'd make it! Then we got lost. After navigating our way through the mess that Chicago calls its street system (mostly all one-ways going the wrong way), we sighted Union Station off in the distance. After a few attempts we were finally able to find the correct one-way that actually bordered the station. It was now after 6:30, I still hadn't picked up my ticket, the overhead announcements stated my train was currently boarding and I was nearing tears. Bugs & I dragged my bags through the station, too late to check them. I grabbed my ticket, kissed Bugs goodbye and dashed (or at least attempted) through the throng of fellow travelers, trying to keep my 100+ pounds of luggage in control. Once on the underground boarding platform, the diesel fumes, heat and humidity hit me like a rock. Oh no! The tell-tale wheeze of an oncoming asthma attack! Within seconds, a full blown episode was upon me. Gasping for breath and rummaging through my purse for the inhaler, I asked an Amtrak employee for assistance. His reply? "Step out of line until you feel better." Gee, thanks for nothing, asshole. To be continued tomorrow .....

New Home for My Journal

AOL will soon be deleting all of the blogs & journals on their site, and old accounts have been referred to Bloggerdotcom. Since this is a new format for me, and my computer skills at page layouts, selecting options, etc., is minimal, please forgive the inevitable errors I'll be making. Sigh ..... just when I was learning how to comfortably manage my old blog, they up and change it. Much like life. Again, sigh .......